Cathedral Close
The junction of Martins Lane, Catherine Street and the close itself, just by the ancient church of St Martins, is probably the Piccadilly Circus of Exeter, certainly a pedestrian version. To stand here at lunch time on a working day is to see an endless stream of very busy people, mainly office workers, all making their way to wherever they are going. It is like a busy cross-roads but with no traffic lights.
Sometimes people collide, make a brief apology, and then walk on. However, I was just standing there, in no particular hurry, observing the Big Issue seller on the usual spot at the corner of the Royal Clarence Hotel. Why the hell do they continue to sell that awful magazine? What is the point?
This time a young woman, who was well-dressed, clean-looking, called out repetitively "Big Issue, sir?" time after time, as though it really was a big issue. Well, there is no issue and I am sick and tired of being pestered to buy their stupid magazine. Admittedly, she did call out "Happy Christmas" to people when they had passed on, but it is annoying nonetheless. It is irritating. I don't mind if a drunk asks me for some money - particularly if they say it is for drink - and I usually offer 50p if I have it. That is fine.
I remember about a year ago, in Paris Street outside the Honiton Inn, a drunk and vagrant approached me and explained, very carefully, that he was an alcoholic, was on the streets, was signing on but didn't have any money for a drink as his girocheque had not arrived ... could I help? Well, of course I could help and I dug deep - in my very shallow pockets - and managed to provide a £1 coin, just to ease his distress in whatever small way I could manage. That is what I call real begging, of the most honest and heart-felt kind. I know what it's like to need a drink, to dull the pain. It is something that many people need at a certain stage in their lives; I would not begrudge anyone that small salvation. Another two £1 donations/contributions and he is well on the way to a very strong bottle of cider. Good luck to him.
I went into the SPCK bookshop, just on the opposite corner (Martins Lane and Catherine Street) for the first time in about ten years. This place burnt down a few months ago but has been restored to its ancient condition, the more so the higher up you go inside.
It is pokey, particularly right up on the third floor, but it does have an interesting collection of antique books, including a few on Exeter. Westcountry Old Books (David Neil) operates from the top floor, which is just like a private study, complete with writing desk and correspondence; its most treasured and expensive items are locked away in glass display cases, a bit like the Royal Albert Museum.
And a great view from their top window, looking out onto the Close itself (the very scene of the first pages of Bram Stoker's Dracula, if you ever read the book).
Oddfellows Hall is a fine building, just behind St Martins Church, what I would say is typical of pre-War Exeter; lots of character and some interesting local stonework. A small building, hidden away in one of the many nooks and crannies of Exeter, yet displaying enormous character and architectural interest. Who were the Odd fellows? Were they ancestors of Jack Lemmon and Walter Matthau?
It's dignity is, however, tainted by the Raw shoe shop next door, its ridiculously loud dance music blasting out endlessly through its open door; same goes for the Piccolo's cafe/bar next door, respectively.
Today, I visited two churches, an unusual event. Firstly, the Cathedral. They recommend contributing £3.50 upon entry, but it is voluntary and I never give such money to anyone voluntarily! The gift shop inside seems to expand by the week, full of the most kitsch, ecclesiastical trinkets and junk imaginable - miniature, silver-plated models of the cathedral and various school stuff like pencils and erasers. But also some interesting books, pictures and china.
What look and sound like a professional singing medley are in preparation - at about 1.30pm - right in the middle of the main floor, under the apex, singing, practicing, performing eccentric little movements with their bodies. Who are they? Some outfit from London, the Guildhall School of Music or something? No, they are West Exe Community College, that delightfully named, recently-rebuilt school out in Alphington, near the Sainsbury's supermarket (brand new school under construction and Premier league, floodlit hockey/soccer pitch and so forth).
On leaving the cathedral there are about another fifty of them all heading towards the great church for their evening concert, a night of fame in front of hundreds of paying guests. Their uniform is dark, navy blue and black... just like my old school in Kent. Perhaps on this very night will be borne the next Charlotte Church... or Joss Stone (who comes from Uffculme, ten miles up the M5).
Then, it's a quick look inside St Martins Church, today holding a large sale of Christmas cards dedicated to almost every charity imaginable. You can take your pick - whole boxes arranged on the tables according to charity: Mind, Sane, Help the Elderly, or something... The list is endless. They are all £3.99 for ten cards, of varying sizes, 40p each with probably only 5p going to charity. Pathetic.
It is often said that the close, in a broad sweep starting in the far, north-eastern corner, displays the whole gamut of building styles and ages, from the most ancient to the most modern in the south-western corner. This is true. It ranges from ancient, thirteenth century red stone, half-timbered buildings to modern, 1950s rubbish made from concrete. The old Exeter bank - towards the latter end, beside the old St Petroc's church - is a fine eighteenth century classical building.
It reminds me a bit of the illustrious Pantiles in Royal Tunbridge Wells, a more modern version of the same theme. One sad thing was that in the Pantiles, in about 1989, the council saw fit to literally 'fill-in' a beautiful old garden, sandwiched by the terracing, with flats, albeit old-style and designed to blend in with the rest of the Pantiles. I wouldn't put anything past the town planners of Exeter City Council.
I would normally forget all of this, despite the early hour, with a quick adjournment to the Ship - 'next to mine own Shippe...', the famous Frankie Drake quote on the door - but today I have to go to work at 4pm. Never mind.
What do all of the ever larger number of Spanish students make of all of this? They wander around Exeter in small bunches, only identifiable by their enviable youth, dimunitive stature and dark, black hair - just like me - and the occasional burst of foreign language overheard. They are very welcome, as far as I am concerned.
Indeed, there are more permanent foreigners in Exeter now than ever before, brought to this ever-greater metropolitan oasis - set within the great, green rolling hills of the Devon countryside - like bees to the honey pot of the University, probably 10,000 students by now, and the flourishing local economy and service sector (£5.50 an hour, thanks). There are also more restaurants and pubs in Exeter than ever before, most serviced by migrants and students, I would imagine. The latest addition, Wetherspoons in South Street, opens.... very, very soon!
In fact, the great actor from Plymouth, Charles Dance - the very epitomy of the traditional, noble English gentleman in hits ranging from Jewel in the Crown and Gosford Park to Tmavomodrý svet - recently spoke in the local paper about the reputation of Exeter and how it had a certain sophistication compared with its great maritime and industrial rival forty miles over Dartmoor and the South Hams.
It is this very green in which I now stand, Cathedral Close, that is responsible for the modern Exeter (if one excludes the Roman contribution, perhaps the original establishment of the city, here). For in 1050, the now tranquil market town of Crediton was quietly abandoned by the great Diocese, which decided to move to Exeter. The Diocese - a bit like the FA of today - decided to build its new Wembley stadium in Exeter and not Crediton; otherwise, we could have been writing of Crediton today.
I also - for the first time ever, since it is not open to the public - had a quick walk up the drive of the Bishop's Palace, over in Palace Gate. This really is a fine area of the city centre, not much changed from several hundred years ago. The Palace itself is the typical Heavitree red stone, very much medieval in appearance. Since it was all built and paid for by forced contributions from their congregation, over hundreds of years, I think they've got a bloody nerve posting great signs stating 'Private Property'. Who do they think they are? It was like forced taxation.
In a way, the Church was like an early invention of privatisation, all backed by brain-washing and a great ideology. They took the money by making ordinary people feel guilty, built their great churches and manors, and then banned everyone from looking at what they paid for. Great.
LINKS
A history of the SPCK bookshop in Cathedral Close (and some of the other nearby buildings):
http://www.dc.eclipse.co.uk/spck1.htm
Contains some excellent photographs; also, in its history of the Clarence Hotel, some details of the visit of Nicholas I of Russia, later the Czar. Incredible.