St James’s Park is red. Just like the city of Exeter.
Approaching the ground along Old Tiverton Road and into the new side road – Stadium Way – the first thing you notice is the great new Cliff Bastin stand, just where the old ‘big bank’ used to be four years ago. Each end of the stand is faced with a giant red brick wall, topped by a vast roof, which also has red paintwork and trimmings. All of the turnstiles are red, too. This is without doubt the home of Exeter City Football Club, now in its centenary year.
Today’s match is the FA Cup First Round tie against Grimsby Town – the Mariners – from Lincolnshire. It’s my first visit to the ground for at least a year and I’m looking forward to this even more than watching Chelsea on satellite tv down the pub. Or watching Yeovil Town at Huish Park. It should be a great occasion. You expect here not great football but simply atmosphere.
Exeter City, after leaving the Football League two years ago, have made about as much impact in the Conference as a goldfish in the English Channel. Indeed, in the three years since they were in the same league as their great Devon rivals, Plymouth Argyle, their fortunes are now so far apart that Exeter may soon join Tiverton Town, just two leagues below them, in the Southern League Premier Divison. Argyle will be in the Premier League within two years.
After buying a snack from a local shop on Blackboy Road – to avoid the high prices inside the ground – I arrive at the turnstile about three minutes after kick-off. There is a big commotion and a roar just as I hand my twenty pound note to the cashier.
‘Exeter are one up. Gaia after one minute’, a delighted turnstile man informs me. I regret to say that I couldn't manage to sound suitably elated, merely acknowledging his help.
The turnstile clicks one last time – a limp applause for a rare, late visit to the Park – and I head for the stairs up to the top of the big bank before a steward stops me and says he needs my lid. I never knew that a plastic pint of milk was such a grievous weapon. He wears a huge yellow fluorescent raincoat, just like a policeman, along with several colleagues: STEWARD. I take comfort and strength in emptying the container before his eyes, my daily pint of milk.
How do you watch a moving dot next to a spotlight? Today, the match ball is accompanied in all its efforts by the stark, low November sun at the far end of the ground. From my eerie at the back of the big bank, surely one of the largest standing terraces left in English football, aerial football is not suited to a low sun. If only they kept the ball on the floor.
The new Ivor Doble stand is even more red than the big bank; its two thousand red seats and brickwork add to the overall effect. There are no glass shields at each end, so the elements force everyone to wrap up well in what is one of the coldest afternoons so far this autumn. Only the Doble nameplate itself, on the side of the stand, is not red; it is rendered in gold, embossed lettering, the colour of the jeweller.
It is nearly full and many are standing up, some in a rage. In particular, one old man near the touchline is waving his arms wildly at the referee: sudden, piercing movements as he points his fist at the referee, shouting like a maniac. In his bulbous, beige anorak he forms an angry blob from where I am standing. His small grand-daughter below him looks bewildered.
There are only 3378 here today but they generate a noise worthy of a crowd twice the size; on the big bank, fanatics sing typical football songs and some summon up every ounce of anger, passion and idiocy to let any opposition player know: 'you are a wanker... FUCK OFF'. But the Grimsby players do a fine job in totally ignoring the abuse, unlike Eric Cantona ten years ago at Selhurst Park.
After their surprise, early lead, Exeter spend most of the first half defending, although there are no clear scoring chances for Grimsby either, today wearing their yellow away kit. They would have worn their traditional black and white stripes but Exeter are in black. Black? Exeter’s normal red and white stripes have gone, all in honour of their centenary.
A small boy draws up beside me on the terrace, also bearing the new black shirt. Is this part of the ‘Red or Dead’ campaign, or an extended mourning period before the club finally goes to the wall? The club’s debts amount to just ten weeks' pay for a Premier league superstar but at this level they are enormous; at half-time, there are several volunteers combing the busy big terrace with large black buckets - Red or Dead Campaign - hoping for a contribution no matter how small. Can it make a difference? Ian Huxham, the new chairman of the supporters' trust that is now Exeter City, has done a magnficent job in holding out against all sorts of creditors, including Doble - the former owner - the tax man, and the construction firm.
On the tannoy, at half-time, it's announced that so-and-so has raised £500 by having his hair dyed red and white (not black, their new kit colour) in support of the Red or Dead campaign. He parades around the touchline, beaming, waving at the crowd, and gets a fine round of applause for this, his five minutes of local fame, though I cannot remember his name. There is a also a whole family - the Bowdens - who have raised even more, £1000, for the campaign and they receive formal anointment and recognition in the inner circle.
Next to me on the terrace, a man of about twenty five has the latest video phone and is sending live pictures of the ceremony to someone, somewhere; I'll call him Videophone Man. He is quiet, unassuming and apparantly on his own. In front of me, another man says that he is actually a season ticket holder at Chelsea but preferred to watch his local team today; he had been due to return last weekend on the very train that crashed near Newbury and it has made him think more about life and support. He is, nonetheless, delighted when I tell him that Chelsea are leading. I've spent the entire first half listening to Radio 5 Live on my small, personal radio; no-one understands when I punch the air after Chelsea score to go 2-1 up.
The club mascot - Alex the Greek - has been emasculated, his bronze plastic sword taken away, all in the name of political correctness; but he continues nevertheless, all sorts of strange and sudden warrior-like movements down on the touchline. He has been allowed to retain his plastic bronze breastplate and red and white feathered hat and is still very popular with the younger supporters.
As for the teams, they have long since disappeared into the inner sanctum of the old - ancient - grandstand on the railway side. This stand is a relic of the club's pre-war years, its dilapidated roof looking weary and about to cave in, swallowing up the one thousand fans sitting inside. One misplaced cigarette end would do the trick nicely.
The teams later emerge for the second half, always jointly these days so that the applause is seen as equal, the one chance to remove any partisanship. Of course, there are only about one hundred Grimsby fans in the minuscule away end anyway - all six steps of terracing at the St James's Road end - and their two coaches have already arrived, ready for the exhausting five hour return to Cleethorpes, over the Wolds, three hundred miles away. It's a long way to come for no reward.
Grimsby Town have seen better days. This season is the sixty-ninth anniversary of their highest ever league finish, an astonishing fifth in the old First Division, the same season that Arsenal were champions. They have also twice managed fifth in the old Second Division, the last as recently as 1984, when behind Chelsea, Newcastle, Sheffield Wednesday and Manchester City. They have managed twelve seasons in the top flight and spent over half their existence in the top two divisions of English football. In 1936 they reached the semi-finals of the FA Cup, only to lose 1-0 to Arsenal, at Huddersfield.
Exeter City have never been above the third division and only been there for about a fifth of their life. However, in City's Division 4 Championship season - 1989-90 - they were 10 points ahead of Grimsby, in second place on 79 points. City have reached the 6th round of the FA Cup twice, in 1931 and 1981. A city the size of Exeter - 111,489 people - should have a bigger club.
In many ways, Russel Slade, their manager, has an even harder task than his Exeter counterpart, Alex Inglethorpe. Historically, Grimsby are a bigger club although given their secluded part of the country, lack of supporters and money, perhaps their expectations could be lower. But - with Boston United and Lincoln City - they form a curious triumvirate of Lincolnshire clubs, all in this lesser known, remote corner of England. Paul Gascoigne - or should I say G8? - had a brief tenure at Boston but failed.
The second half passes without much incident apart from a great chance for Exeter's Sean Devine; he is clean through on goal but hesitates, tries to turn direction and misses his chance. Grimsby enjoy some late pressure near the end and look threatening but it is all too little too late. Time for the coaches to switch on their engines, gather their inhabitants and leave.
However, the final whistle itself is a revelation. The Grecians fans greet the confirmation of a win and their progession to the second round with wilder, more rapturous scenes than at any match I have ever seen. Videophone Man morphs into a fanatical maniac, screaming madly, punching the air, arms held aloft as if greeting the messiah and the scene is matched throughout the entire ground. He begins singing madly, screaming until hoarse, checking left and right - his head trembling - for rhythm and company as the uproar gains momentum. There is wild cheering around the entire stadium - almost as if the very future of the club has been secured - and the players all embrace, before themselves approaching the big bank, home of their greatest fans.
The few Grimsby fans at the other end quietly and disconsolately leave - not a murmur of protest or disapproval - with a whimper. A terrible day and a long journey back and all for no reward, not even a replay. I always feel sorry for the away fans.
At the Centre Spot - housed in the old school buildings behind the Doble Stand - its large bar and rooms are full of fans, now eager to catch up on the national football news. This is the essence of football support, a local team and then your national team. This bar is a shrine to the way of life that is football. There are all sorts of memorabilia on the walls, including scarves from all over Europe: Werder Bremen, Lazio, Ajax, Fenerbache, etc., etc. It is a truly great sports/football theme pub, well worth a visit. Chelsea are clear at the top and all that remains now is the draw on Sunday afternoon. Could it be Yeovil? Or Plymouth in the third round, later on?