Subway, Exeter

In the space of just three or four years, Subway, the American sandwich and deli chain, has torpedoed the takeaway and fast-food restaurant scene in Exeter. The local kebab shops offer nothing close to the quality or value for money of Subway (and charge much more) and McDonalds is desperately trying to follow suit, offering all sorts of healthy salads and subway-style sandwiches and specials. They have no chance. Likewise, Burger King.

The first Subway restaurant in Exeter opened at 45 Sidwell Street, about four years ago, up by the Duke of York pub, close to the Odeon cinema. It has been a resounding success. Subway is surely a victim of its own success: on busy Saturday afternoons, there can be up to thirty people inside, half of them queuing.

As it says on its standard menu leaflet: 24,219 stores in 83 countries. Its founders, Fred de Luca and Dr Peter Buck, must be astounded. A $9 billion food empire begun from a tiny takeaway - Pete's Super Submarines - founded in Milford, Connecticut, back in 1965.

I try and beat the Saturday afternoon rush, arriving at the small, shop-style Sidwell Street restaurant just before noon. Not so long ago, I had no money at all, so a £3.50 meal at Subway is a total luxury.

If all major food chains have their corporate logo and advertising, then Subway is the Norwich City of takeaway restaurants. Their bright canary yellow and dark green decor, and neon Subway sign outside - like a pub sign, hanging down from an awaning - and the shop front challenge the traditional, tough colours of red and black that you see at McDonalds and Burger King, near the Guildhall.

McDonalds have a branch built into the Kop at Anfield; Subway, however, is the Delia Smith of takeaways and could do worse than open a little outlet at Carrow Road.

Subway is a very successful, premier league Norwich City; McDonalds and Burger King are now Notts County, in relegation freefall. Is there any hope for them?

Commercial radio smothers any conversation - too loud by far - and the staff work assiduously, like maniacal coolies, reeling off an endless series of questions: 'would you like salad?', 'what sort of bread would you like?', 'toasted with cheese?', 'chilli sauce or barbecue sauce?'. The list is endless, yet fascinating. Never did a fast food customer get such intense customer service for so little money.

As usual, I opt for the 'Hearty Italian' bread - a good, plain and honest sub, though not crusty at all, just a gritty, sandpaper finish on top. I also go for my favourite filling, the Chicken Tariyaki. Salad and chilli sauce. Processed cheese, sliced turkey, ham and proper beef are available. Scrumptious.

Why do they not offer a check-list of items so that the staff can get right on with producing the sandwich, not asking an endless list of questions? They could get more customer through-put that way.

I collect the Sub Club stamp, too. Eight of these and you have a free meal, the sort of thing that Jared the Subway Guy - the antidode to the Supersize Me, anti-McDonalds bloke - would have had by the dozen.

I enjoy the green, vinyl benches and booths, rather than the tall stools. I never did like fixed chairs, however. Ladbrokes offer plush carpets and normal, movable chairs, as opposed to William Hills' fixed, plastic football stadium seating.

I also enjoy sitting down, admiring the archive New York Subway maps on the walls.